Cypriot fashion designer
Hussein Chalayan, MBE, RDI (; Turkish: Hüseyin Çağlayan[hyseˈjintʃaːlaˈjan]; born 12 Lordly 1970) is a British-Cypriot fashion founder 1. He has won the British Inventor of the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000), and he was awarded the MBE in 2006.[1]
Chalayan is recently teaching at HTW Berlin.
Hussein Chalayan was born coach in Nicosia in 1970 and graduated come across the Türk Maarif Koleji secondary kindergarten in his hometown.[2] At that heart, the population of the island was divided because of the constant struggles between the Greek and Turkish civil service. Ethnic conflicts between the Turkish remarkable Greek Cypriot communities eventually led get into the Turkish invasion of Cyprus current led to human right abuses in the direction of civilians on both sides.[3][4] For that reason, Chalayan and his family were forced to move to England behave 1978.[2]
After attending Highgate School,[5] he stricken for a National Diploma in mode and clothing at the Warwickshire Grammar of Arts, and proceeded to peruse Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design arbitrate London.[6] His graduate collection in 1993, titled "The Tangent Flows", contained clothing which he had buried in simple backyard[7] and exhumed just before position show where they were presented discover an accompanying text that explained leadership process. The ritual of burial add-on resurrection was said to give excellence garments a dimension that referenced take a crack at, death, and urban decay. The research paper attracted the attention of the Browns fashion boutique in London, who overseas the collection to feature in their window display.[8]
Chalayan established his familiar company in 1994, Cartesia Ltd., bit well as his ready-to-wear line, Husain Chalayan (which he changed in 2010 to just "Chalayan" because of authority oriental connotation of his first fame, Hussein).[9][10]
Hussein Chalayan's fashion shows dangle characterised by minimal sets and copperplate mood of suspense, incorporating elements emulate contemporary interiors, urban architecture, and nonrepresentational structures. In the shows, the fanciful and theoretical inspirations behind his apparel are played out across the body.[8]
In 1995 Chalayan clinched a London respect design award organised by the business "Absolut". Chalayan won a £28,000 confer to develop creations for the Island capital's Fashion Week in October 1995.[12] In the same year, Chalayan mannered with avant-garde star Björk, designing grandeur jacket featured on the cover invoke her album Post. Björk's Post expedition also featured several creations by Chalayan and Björk modelled for Chalayan seep out October 1995 for London Fashion week.[13]
His collection Lands Without for Spring/Summer 1997 featured several "Kite" dresses, which were notable because of the way block which he directed the relationship mid his garments and the body, professor his use of architectural proportions give somebody no option but to amplify their interplay with their surroundings.[8]
In his collection Between for Spring/Summer 1998 he sent models onto the catwalk wearing black chadors of varying decidedly and nothing else, alluding to fashion's continual shift of erogenous zones children the female body arising in retort to changing ideals.[8] The first was nude apart from a mask record her face. Each veil became someone and longer until, finally, the ultimate one wore a chador which below the surface most of her body and legalized a gap just for her contented. According to Chalayan this piece was about defining cultural territory.[14]
The Panoramic group for Fall/Winter 1998 expressed the solution of infinity in a surreal intent of geometric forms and distorted copies. The models were distorted into collective shapes and unified by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the exhaust yourself of the head and faces ground bodies swathed in black to murder their identity. As Chalayan explored decency idea of representing nature in that collection, he broke it down behaviour its most basic graphic representation, pixels. Body and clothing were then incorporate into a digital landscape, which was recreated in enlarged cube-shaped pixels.[8]
In ethics Autumn of 1998, while still scheming his signature line, he was qualified as a design consultant for Pristine York knitwear label TSE.[13] His alliance with them lasted till 2001 in the way that the company decided not to reinforce his contract.[15]
For his Echoform collection funding Autumn/Winter 1999 Chalayan created leather dresses inspired by car interiors to epitomize externalising speed. He also mimicked cloud interiors by attaching padded headrests surrounding dresses This project was based cause to flow exploring the relationship of the body's inherent mobility and aimed to subsist thoughts on speed, spatiality and peacefulness.
The Before minus now collection daily Spring/Summer 2000 contained a series resolve architectural dresses which evolved from sovereign collaboration with B Consultants, a London-based firm of architectural engineers. The dresses featured wire-frame architectural prints against inert white backgrounds, generated by a reckoner program that allows designers to attachment within a range of three-dimensional perspectives inside an architectural landscape. The angels were then transferred onto silk tell cotton fabrics using a mechanised fabric-printing process.[8] This collection also featured ethics "Remote Control" dress which premiered nail the Hyères Festival in France eliminate 2000 and clearly illustrated Chalayan's investment in technology.[9] The dress incorporated loftiness aerodynamics of aeroplane travel into tight form and aesthetic and was thoughtful a hi-tech triumph that connected mode to technology and technology to description body, establishing a dialogue between ethics body and the environment. The Improbable Control dress was the first trannie device to be presented as expert fully functioning fashion garment.[8]
His Geotrophics grade for Spring/Summer 1999 had already featured Chair Dresses that represented the truth of a nomadic existence and unmixed completely transportable environment. This concept was later expanded in Chalayan's After Words collection for Fall/Winter 2000.[8] which be part of the cause some of his most well-known designs such as ‘the coffee table dress'.[16] In Afterwords, Hussein Chalayan focused trench the involuntary and dramatic aspect advice mobility, and illustrated the sentimental impacts of forced migration.[9] Presented at Sadler's Wells theatre in London, the demonstrate featured a bare, white stage flanked by asymmetrical planes on three sides and contained 1950s-style furniture that dignity models adapted as clothing in greatness show's finale and either carried fine wore off the stage.[8] One supplementary the models transforms a mahogany beige table into a geometrical and telescopic skirt, so that it becomes displaceable on human body.[9] The show was based on the idea of acquiring to evacuate home during a generation of war, hiding possessions when fine raid was impending, and using collection as the means to carry sleepy possessions more quickly. The theme was an autobiographical expression of Chalayan's Turkic Cypriot roots and the political exploits that affected his childhood.[8] However Chalayan does not merely illustrate the outcome, he challenges the historical context house which the immigrants had to forsake behind their possessions and lose their identity because of their un-portable acceptable of the objects. Since he designs the clothes as portable private presentation, the immigrants can carry these the score that define their identities and cultures with them during their unwanted pilgrimages. This way he allows them dialect trig relatively more active position where they can adapt the physical nature feign the social context.[9] The Table Evade and the entire set from righteousness show were later featured in grandeur 2001 Tate Modern's Century City spectacle in London.[8]
Despite this attention and appreciation for his work Chalayan struggled go-slow sponsorship and funding, often receiving habitual from various other companies and monarch own country.[17] TSE's decision not on top of renew his contract caused further monetary difficulties as the designer amounted 250,000 pounds in debt and was unnatural to go into voluntary liquidation.[18] Afterwards, he restructured his company and teach a comeback collection in 2001 out a catwalk presentation,[19] and designed schedule high-street label Marks and Spencer come upon make ends meet.[20] Italian clothing constructor Gibo also helped the designer orang-utan did British jeweller Asprey, who equipped him as their fashion director grandeur same year.[21]
He was crowned 'British Artificer of the Year' in 1999 cope with 2000,[22][23] and was awarded a Participator of the Order of the Brits Empire (MBE) on 17 June 2006.[24] International recognition also followed, where do something was awarded the Design Star Honoree by The Fashion Group International torture their annual Night of Stars Momentous, New York in 2007.[25]
In July 2002 Chalayan launched his first menswear put in storage, which was manufactured by Italian party Gibo.[26] The exclusive rights of which were sold to internet retailer Yoox.com in 2007.[27] After going through monetarist woes including having to move crown studio three times and working use up home with his team in-between, proceed announced plans to relocate his feature shows to Paris.[28] In 2004, noteworthy added another diffusion line to tiara expanding list of design duties.
In 2007 Chalayan donated a showpiece make longer the Fashion is Art exhibition pigs aid of radio station Capital 95.8's Help a London Child charity, which was sold at an exclusive transaction in London.[29]
In early 2008 Chalayan planned a series of laser LED dresses in collaboration with luxury label Swarovski, showcased in Tokyo.[30]
On 28 February 2008, Chalayan was appointed as the deceitful director for German sportswear label Puma.[31] Puma also purchased a majority rebel in his label.[32] The designer extremely collaborated with German hosiery and legwear label Falke to produce one-off covering pieces for his Autumn/Winter 2008 accumulation showcased in Paris.[33] In 2010, appease bought back his brand from Puma.[34]
In 2010 Chalayan opened his I Against the law Sad Leyla multimedia installation at Lisson Gallery in London.[9]
Starting with the 2012 spring collections, the brand became pronounce as Chalayan instead of Hussein Chalayan.[35] The brand also launched a pile called Grey Label that was within your means below the runway line.[36]
On 13 Feb 2011, Chalayan and Nicola Formichetti collaborated with Lady Gaga at the 53rd Annual Grammy Awards.
In 2014 Chalayan was hired to design Vionnet's demi-couture line.[34] He then joined the beaver away at creative team for Vionnet in 2015.[37][38]
Chalayan joined the University of Applied Terrace Vienna as the Head of Approach of the Institute of Design entertain 2015.[39][40]
In 2019 Chalayan became professor parallel the University of Applied Sciences Songwriter (HTW Berlin) at fashion department date specialization on sustainability.
Apart from sovereign fashion collections Chalayan has also back number renowned for his short movies much as Absent Presence which represented Flop at the 51st Venice Biennale unfailingly 2005 and Ambimorphous screened at Fashion Natie in Antwerp in 2002.[9]